Trabzon, nestled on Turkey’s Black Sea coast in the northeast, is a city of stunning natural beauty, rich history, and cultural depth. As the capital of Trabzon Province, it sits about 1,100 kilometers (680 miles) east of Istanbul, with a population of around 820,000. Known historically as Trebizond, it was a key port on the Silk Road and the capital of the Empire of Trebizond (1204–1461), a Byzantine successor state. Today, Trabzon is celebrated for its lush green landscapes, ancient monasteries, and a vibrant local culture shaped by its diverse past and proximity to Georgia and Armenia. Let’s explore Trabzon in detail, covering its highlights, history, activities, and practical tips.

Highlights of Trabzon

Trabzon offers a mix of historical sites, natural wonders, and cultural experiences that make it a unique destination.

• Sumela Monastery: Perched at 1,200 meters (3,900 feet) on a cliff in the Altındere Valley, this 4th-century Greek Orthodox monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage tentative list site. Its frescoes, chapels, and dramatic setting amidst misty forests are breathtaking. The monastery was abandoned in 1923 during the population exchange but reopened as a museum until recent restoration (now partially accessible). The hike or shuttle from the valley floor takes 20-30 minutes.
• Hagia Sophia of Trabzon: A 13th-century Byzantine church turned mosque turned museum, now a mosque again (since 2013). Its dome, frescoes, and bell tower reflect a blend of Byzantine and Islamic art. Located in the city center, it’s a serene spot with sea views (free entry, dress modestly).
• Trabzon Castle: Overlooking the Black Sea, this fortress dates back to Byzantine times, with walls stretching from the sea to the hills. The castle area offers panoramic views of the city and coastline, and the nearby Ortahisar neighborhood has traditional wooden houses.
• Uzungöl: A postcard-perfect alpine lake 100 km southeast of Trabzon, surrounded by dense forests and misty mountains. Wooden chalets, walking trails, and trout fishing make it a popular retreat. It’s touristy, so visit early to avoid crowds.
• Atatürk Pavilion: A 19th-century mansion where Mustafa Kemal Atatürk stayed in 1924, now a museum with his personal items and period furniture. Its hilltop location offers views of Trabzon.
• Boztepe Hill: A scenic viewpoint above the city, perfect for tea at a traditional tea garden while watching the Black Sea sunset. It’s a short cable car ride or drive from the center.
• Çarşıbaşı Bazaar: Trabzon’s historic market, where you can buy local hazelnuts (Turkey produces 70% of the world’s supply), handmade copperware, and Trabzon-style bread (pide).

History and Cultural Significance

Trabzon’s history spans over 2,500 years, shaped by its strategic position as a Black Sea port and trade hub.

• Ancient Origins: Founded as Trapezus by Greek colonists from Sinope in the 8th century BCE, it became a key stop on the Silk Road, linking Persia with Europe.
• Roman and Byzantine Era: The Romans fortified it, and it later became a Byzantine stronghold. After the Fourth Crusade in 1204, the Komnenos family established the Empire of Trebizond, a Byzantine successor state, which thrived as a cultural and trade center until the Ottomans captured it in 1461.
• Ottoman Rule: Under the Ottomans, Trabzon remained a prosperous port, with a diverse population of Turks, Greeks, Armenians, and Genoese traders. Many churches, like Hagia Sophia, were converted into mosques.
• Modern Era: The 1923 population exchange saw its Greek population leave, but their cultural influence lingers in architecture and traditions. Today, Trabzon is a conservative city with a strong regional identity, known for its football team (Trabzonspor) and the Horon, a lively Black Sea folk dance.

The city’s multicultural past and natural setting make it a bridge between East and West, with a distinct Black Sea character.

Things to Do

Trabzon offers a blend of outdoor adventures, historical exploration, and cultural immersion.

• Visit Sumela Monastery: Explore the frescoed chapels and take in the misty views. Wear sturdy shoes—the path can be slippery, especially after rain.
• Hike in Altındere Valley: The valley below Sumela has trails through pine forests and streams, ideal for a half-day nature escape.
• Relax at Uzungöl: Rent a bike, walk the lake’s perimeter, or enjoy trout at a lakeside restaurant. Paragliding is available for thrill-seekers.
• Stroll the City Center: Walk from Trabzon Square to Hagia Sophia, stopping at the castle and bazaar. Try pide topped with local butter and cheese at Çardak Pide.
• Explore the Highlands: Day trips to the Fırtına Valley or Ayder Plateau (150 km away) offer waterfalls, rafting, and traditional yayla (mountain pasture) culture.
• Tea Gardens at Boztepe: Sip Black Sea tea (a regional specialty) while watching ships on the horizon.
• Day Trips:
  • Rize: 75 km east, known for tea plantations and the Zil Castle in the Fırtına Valley.
  • Giresun: 130 km west, with a historic island (Giresun Adası) linked to Amazon warrior myths.

Food and Local Flavors

Trabzon’s cuisine is hearty, reflecting its Black Sea climate and agricultural bounty.

• Must-Tries:
  • Hamsi: Anchovies, a Black Sea staple, prepared fried, grilled, or in pilaf (hamsi pilavı).
  • Kuymak (Mıhlama): A gooey dish of cornmeal, butter, and stringy cheese, served hot.
  • Trabzon Pide: Boat-shaped flatbread topped with cheese, butter, or minced meat.
  • Laz Böreği: A sweet layered pastry with custard, a Black Sea twist on baklava.
  • Kale: Cabbage rolls stuffed with rice or meat, often paired with yogurt.
• Drinks: Black Sea tea, grown in nearby Rize, is strong and served in small tulip glasses.
• Where to Eat: Nihat Usta for hamsi dishes, Kalkanoğlu Pilavcısı for traditional pilaf, and local tea houses for kuymak with a view.

Practical Tips

• Getting There:
  • By Air: Trabzon Airport (TZX) has flights from Istanbul (1.5 hours) and Ankara (1 hour). Taxis or shuttles to the city center (6 km).
  • By Bus: Frequent from Istanbul (16-18 hours), Ankara (12-14 hours), or Erzurum (4-5 hours).
  • By Car: 1,100 km from Istanbul (14-16 hours) or 780 km from Ankara (10-12 hours) via the E80 highway.
• Best Time to Visit: Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) for 15-22°C weather and lush greenery. Summer (June-August) is warm (25-30°C) but humid; winter (0-10°C) brings snow to the highlands.
• Getting Around: Walkable in the center; dolmuş (shared minibus) or taxis for farther spots. Renting a car is ideal for highlands like Uzungöl.
• Where to Stay:
  • Budget: Hostels.
  • Mid-Range and luxury hotels available.
• What to Bring: Layered clothing (humid weather can change quickly), rain gear (frequent showers), hiking shoes, and a hat. A camera for the scenery is a must.
• Cultural Notes: Trabzon is more conservative—dress modestly outside tourist areas. Locals are warm but expect curiosity about visitors. Tipping 5-10% is standard.

Hidden Gems

• Çal Cave: 45 km southwest, one of Turkey’s longest caves, with stalactites and underground streams.
• Sera Lake: 10 km west, a man-made lake with walking paths and tea gardens, less crowded than Uzungöl.
• Vazelon Monastery: A 3rd-century monastery in the woods, 40 km south, quieter than Sumela.
• Kızlar Monastery: A ruined 14th-century site in the city, with views of the harbor.

Cultural and Environmental Notes

• Black Sea Identity: Trabzonites are proud of their distinct culture—expect Horon dance performances and lively tea-drinking traditions.
• Sustainability: Uzungöl faces over-tourism—stick to marked trails and avoid littering. Support local hazelnut farmers by buying directly.
• Safety: Generally safe, but mountain roads can be treacherous in rain or snow—check conditions.