Edirne

Edirne, located in northwestern Turkey near the borders with Greece and Bulgaria, is a city steeped in history and cultural significance. It’s about 230 km northwest of Istanbul, roughly 150 km west of Gallipoli, making it a feasible stop if you’re exploring the region. Often overshadowed by Istanbul, Edirne offers a quieter, more intimate glimpse into Turkey’s Ottoman past, with stunning architecture, vibrant traditions, and a strategic location that has shaped its identity over centuries. Here’s a detailed look at Edirne’s history, attractions, culture, and practical info for visitors.

Historical Background

Edirne’s history stretches back millennia, reflecting its role as a gateway between Europe and Asia. Originally called Hadrianopolis (or Adrianople), it was founded by the Roman Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century CE on the site of an earlier Thracian settlement. Its location on the military and trade routes between Constantinople (Istanbul) and Europe made it a key city in the Roman and Byzantine empires. The city saw numerous battles, including the pivotal Battle of Adrianople in 378 CE, where the Visigoths defeated Roman forces, marking a turning point in the empire’s decline.

Edirne’s golden age came under the Ottomans. Captured in 1361 by Sultan Murad I, it became the empire’s capital from 1365 until 1453, when Constantinople fell and replaced it. As the capital, Edirne was a testing ground for Ottoman architecture, governance, and culture, earning the nickname “The Second Capital.” It remained a vital city even after the capital shifted, serving as a military and administrative hub on the empire’s European frontier. The city’s proximity to Europe also made it a cultural melting pot, blending Turkish, Greek, Bulgarian, and Jewish influences.

Key Attractions

Edirne is compact but packed with historical and cultural gems, most of which are walkable from the city center. Its Ottoman architecture, especially its mosques, stands out as some of the finest in Turkey.

1. Selimiye Mosque (Selimiye Camii)

  • Why It’s Special: A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011, this 16th-century mosque is considered the masterpiece of Mimar Sinan, the greatest Ottoman architect. Built between 1568 and 1575 under Sultan Selim II, its soaring dome (31.25 meters in diameter) and slender minarets (the tallest in Turkey at 70.9 meters) dominate Edirne’s skyline.
  • Highlights: The interior is breathtaking—light floods through 384 windows, illuminating intricate Iznik tiles and calligraphy. The central dome, supported by eight massive columns, creates a vast, uninterrupted prayer space. Climb one of the minarets (if open) for panoramic views of the city.
  • Visitor Tip: Entry is free; dress modestly (headscarves for women, no shorts). Visit early morning or late afternoon to avoid crowds and catch the light on the tiles.

2. Old Mosque (Eski Camii)

  • Why It’s Special: Built between 1403 and 1414 by Sultan Mehmet I, this is Edirne’s oldest major mosque, known for its simpler, more robust design compared to the Selimiye. Its nine domes and bold calligraphy give it a unique character.
  • Highlights: The massive Arabic calligraphy on the walls, especially the names of Allah and Muhammad, is striking. It’s less touristy, offering a quieter space for reflection.
  • Visitor Tip: Located near the city center, it’s an easy stop between other sites. The nearby bedesten (covered market) is worth a quick visit for local crafts.

3. Üç Şerefeli Mosque

  • Why It’s Special: Constructed between 1438 and 1447 by Sultan Murad II, this mosque is a transitional masterpiece in Ottoman architecture, bridging earlier Seljuk styles with the grandeur of later works like the Selimiye. Its name (“Three Balconies”) comes from the triple-balconied minaret, a first at the time.
  • Highlights: The courtyard is serene, with a marble fountain and arched porticos. The interior features early experiments with dome support that influenced Sinan’s later designs.
  • Visitor Tip: Check out the asymmetrical minarets—one has a spiral staircase design, a playful touch. It’s a short walk from the Selimiye.
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4. Edirne Palace (Edirne Sarayı)

  • Why It’s Special: Once a sprawling Ottoman palace rivaling Topkapi in Istanbul, it was used by sultans for hunting trips and as a residence during campaigns. Though largely in ruins after years of neglect and damage (notably during the Russo-Turkish War of 1878), restoration efforts are ongoing.
  • Highlights: The restored Cihannüma Kasrı (Panorama Pavilion) offers a glimpse of its former glory. The palace grounds along the Tunca River are peaceful for a stroll.
  • Visitor Tip: Don’t expect a fully intact palace—it’s more an archaeological site. Combine with a visit to the nearby Kırkpınar oil-wrestling stadium for context on local traditions.

5. Kırkpınar Oil-Wrestling Festival Grounds

  • Why It’s Special: Edirne is the birthplace of Kırkpınar, the world’s oldest continuously held sporting event, dating back to 1362. This annual oil-wrestling tournament (pehlivan güreşi) sees wrestlers doused in olive oil compete for the title of “Chief Wrestler” (Başpehlivan).
  • Highlights: The festival, held in late June or early July, is a cultural spectacle—think music, food stalls, and thousands of spectators cheering greased-up giants. The Sarayiçi area, where it’s held, also has historical significance tied to Ottoman military camps.
  • Visitor Tip: Even outside festival time, the stadium and surrounding fields are worth a quick visit. Check the exact dates if planning to attend—it’s a lively but crowded event.

6. The Complex of Sultan Bayezid II (Health Museum)

  • Why It’s Special: Built in 1488 by Sultan Bayezid II, this külliye (social complex) on the Tunca River was a pioneering hospital, treating physical and mental illnesses with advanced Ottoman medical practices, including music therapy.
  • Highlights: Now a museum (Trakya University Health Museum), it showcases medical instruments, herbal treatments, and wax figures depicting Ottoman doctors at work. The mosque and serene gardens add to the peaceful atmosphere.
  • Visitor Tip: About 2 km from the city center—walk along the river or take a short taxi ride. The museum won the European Museum of the Year Award in 2004, so it’s well-curated.

7. The Synagogue of Edirne

  • Why It’s Special: Reopened in 2015 after restoration, this early 20th-century synagogue reflects Edirne’s once-thriving Jewish community, which dates back to Roman times and grew under Ottoman rule (Sephardic Jews settled here after expulsion from Spain in 1492).
  • Highlights: The interior features stained glass, ornate woodwork, and a marble bimah (platform). It’s one of the largest synagogues in the Balkans.
  • Visitor Tip: Entry is free but hours are limited—check ahead. It’s a reminder of Edirne’s multi-faith history, alongside its mosques and churches.

8. The Bridges of Edirne

  • Why It’s Special: Edirne’s three rivers—Tunca, Meriç, and Arda—are spanned by elegant Ottoman stone bridges, many built by Mimar Sinan or his apprentices.
  • Highlights: The Meriç Bridge (1847) is a romantic spot for sunset walks, while the Gazi Mihal Bridge (1452) has historical charm with its arches reflecting in the Tunca River.
  • Visitor Tip: Combine a bridge stroll with a picnic along the Meriç Riverbanks—locals often grill and relax here on weekends.

Culture and Lifestyle

Edirne feels like a big small town—less hectic than Istanbul but lively enough to keep you engaged. Its Ottoman heritage is everywhere, from the architecture to the food. The city has a proud identity tied to its past as a capital, and locals often speak of it as the “Cradle of the Ottoman Empire.”

  • Cuisine: Edirne is famous for ciğer tava, thinly sliced, deep-fried liver served with onions and peppers—a must-try street food. Also sample badem ezmesi (marzipan-like almond paste) and deva-i misk, a spiced candy with supposed medicinal properties. Riverside restaurants along the Meriç serve fresh fish and meze.
  • Markets: The Ali Pasha Bazaar, designed by Mimar Sinan, is a smaller, less touristy version of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, with shops selling soaps, textiles, and local cheeses. The weekly Friday Market near the Eski Camii is great for fresh produce and souvenirs.
  • Festivals: Beyond Kırkpınar, Edirne hosts the Kakava Festival (May), a Roma celebration with music, dance, and bonfires, marking spring’s arrival—a vibrant display of the city’s diversity.

Practical Information

  • Getting There: Edirne is well-connected. From Istanbul, it’s a 2-3 hour drive or bus ride (frequent services from Esenler Bus Terminal). Trains from Istanbul (Halkalı Station) take about 4 hours on the high-speed line. From Gallipoli, it’s a 2-hour drive or bus via Çanakkale.
  • Getting Around: The city center is walkable—most sites are within a 1-2 km radius. Taxis or dolmuş (minibuses) are cheap for outlying spots like the Bayezid II Complex.
  • Where to Stay: Options range from budget hostels to boutique hotels in restored Ottoman houses. The Rüstem Paşa Kervansarayı, a restored 16th-century caravanserai, offers a unique stay. Prices are generally lower than Istanbul.
  • Best Time to Visit: Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) for mild weather and festivals like Kakava. Summer can be hot but ideal for Kırkpınar. Winters are chilly but quiet.
  • Cultural Tips: Edirne is more conservative than Istanbul—dress modestly, especially at mosques. Locals are warm but English isn’t widely spoken outside tourist spots; a few Turkish phrases help.

Why Edirne Stands Out

Edirne is a hidden gem for history buffs and those seeking a less touristy Ottoman experience. The Selimiye Mosque alone is worth the trip—Mimar Sinan called it his finest work, even above Istanbul’s Süleymaniye. Beyond the architecture, the city’s blend of cultures, from Ottoman to Roma to Jewish, gives it a layered identity. It’s also a great day trip or overnight stop if you’re heading to Gallipoli or crossing into Greece or Bulgaria—its border proximity adds a frontier-town vibe.