Ankara, Turkey’s capital city, sits smack in the heart of the country. While often overshadowed by Istanbul’s dazzle or Cappadocia’s surreal landscapes, Ankara has its own understated charm, blending deep historical roots with the bustle of a modern political hub. It’s a city of contrasts—ancient ruins and Ottoman relics rub shoulders with government buildings and wide boulevards, all set against the backdrop of the Anatolian Plateau. Here’s a detailed look at Ankara’s history, attractions, culture, and practical info for visitors.

Historical Background

Ankara’s history stretches back to the Bronze Age, with evidence of Hittite settlements around 2000 BCE. Known as Ancyra under the Romans and Angora in later periods, it was a thriving trade and military outpost thanks to its central location on the Anatolian Plateau. The Romans left their mark with structures like the Temple of Augustus and the Roman Baths, while the Byzantines fortified the city further.

Ankara’s prominence faded during the early Ottoman period, overshadowed by cities like Edirne and Istanbul, but it remained a regional center famous for its Angora goats (source of mohair) and long-haired cats. Its modern significance began in the 20th century when Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founder of the Republic of Turkey, chose it as the base for the Turkish War of Independence (1919–1923) due to its central location and rail connections. In 1923, Ankara replaced Istanbul as the capital, cementing its role as the political and administrative heart of the new republic.

Key Attractions

Ankara isn’t as packed with tourist sites as Istanbul, but it has a curated selection of historical, cultural, and modern landmarks that reflect its layered past and present role. Most are easily accessible by foot or public transport.

1. Anıtkabir

• Why It’s Special: The mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, Anıtkabir is a monumental complex on a hill overlooking Ankara. Built between 1944 and 1953, it’s a pilgrimage site for Turks and a powerful symbol of modern Turkey’s foundation.
• Highlights: The massive Hall of Honor houses Atatürk’s marble sarcophagus (his actual tomb is below). The surrounding museum displays his personal items, like his car and clothes, alongside exhibits on the War of Independence. The Changing of the Guard ceremony, with its precise military choreography, adds gravitas.
• Visitor Tip: Entry is free; allow 1-2 hours. Dress respectfully—no shorts or sleeveless tops. The view from the hill is stunning, especially at sunset.

2. Museum of Anatolian Civilizations

• Why It’s Special: Housed in a restored 15th-century Ottoman bedesten (market hall), this museum is one of the world’s best for ancient artifacts, showcasing Turkey’s role as a cradle of civilization from the Paleolithic to Roman eras.
• Highlights: Exhibits include Hittite reliefs, Phrygian treasures (like King Midas’s artifacts), and Neolithic finds from Çatalhöyük, one of the earliest human settlements (circa 7000 BCE). The layout is chronological, walking you through millennia of Anatolian history.
• Visitor Tip: Near Ankara Castle; entry is around 150 lira. Audio guides are available—worth it for context. Allow 1-2 hours; it’s a must for history buffs.

3. Ankara Castle (Ankara Kalesi)

• Why It’s Special: Perched on a rocky hill in the old quarter, this fortress dates back to the Galatians (3rd century BCE), with Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman additions. It offers a glimpse into Ankara’s ancient past and panoramic city views.
• Highlights: Wander the narrow, cobblestone streets of the citadel, lined with restored Ottoman houses now housing cafes and shops. The outer walls and towers are great for photos; the inner keep has a small museum.
• Visitor Tip: Free to enter; wear sturdy shoes for uneven terrain. Combine with a visit to nearby museums or the Hamamönü district for a full morning.

4. Hacı Bayram Mosque and Temple of Augustus

• Why It’s Special: This site juxtaposes Islamic and Roman heritage. The mosque, built in 1428, honors Hacı Bayram Veli, a revered Sufi poet and founder of the Bayrami order. Adjacent to it are the ruins of the Temple of Augustus, built in 25 BCE to honor the Roman emperor, later repurposed as a Byzantine church.
• Highlights: The mosque’s wooden minbar (pulpit) and mihrab (prayer niche) are beautifully carved. The temple’s surviving walls bear a rare inscription of Augustus’s deeds (the Res Gestae). The contrast between the two structures is striking.
• Visitor Tip: In the Ulus district, near Ankara Castle. Entry is free; dress modestly for the mosque. It’s a quick stop—30-45 minutes suffices.

5. Kocatepe Mosque

• Why It’s Special: Ankara’s largest mosque, completed in 1987, is a modern Ottoman-style masterpiece with four minarets and a massive central dome. It can hold 24,000 worshippers and dominates the city skyline.
• Highlights: The interior dazzles with stained glass, chandeliers, and intricate tilework. The surrounding complex includes a library, conference hall, and even a small shopping center.
• Visitor Tip: Free entry; dress appropriately (headscarves for women provided). It’s centrally located in the Kızılay district—visit during prayer call for an atmospheric experience.

6. Gençlik Parkı (Youth Park)

• Why It’s Special: A green oasis in the city center, this park was created in the 1940s as part of Atatürk’s vision for a modern capital. It’s a popular spot for locals to unwind.
• Highlights: Stroll around the artificial lake, ride a paddleboat, or sip tea at one of the open-air cafes. There’s also an amusement park with a Ferris wheel offering city views.
• Visitor Tip: Near Ulus; free to enter. Great for a break between sightseeing—especially with kids. Evenings are lively with families and street vendors.

7. Hamamönü

• Why It’s Special: These restored Ottoman neighborhoods near Ankara Castle are filled with colorful wooden houses turned into cafes, galleries, and craft shops. They offer a nostalgic glimpse of 19th-century Ankara.
• Highlights: Browse handmade jewelry or sip Turkish coffee at a quaint cafe. The area often hosts live music or art exhibitions. The nearby Karacabey Hammam (15th century) is still in use if you fancy a traditional bath.
• Visitor Tip: A short walk from Ulus; perfect for a leisurely afternoon. Try menemen (Turkish scrambled eggs) or gözleme (stuffed flatbread) at a local spot.

8. Atakule Tower

• Why It’s Special: At 125 meters, Atakule is Ankara’s tallest structure, offering 360-degree views of the city. Built in 1989, it’s a modern landmark with a revolving restaurant at the top.
• Highlights: The observation deck is the draw—on clear days, you can see the whole city sprawl and distant mountains. The restaurant rotates slowly, giving diners a moving panorama.
• Visitor Tip: In the Çankaya district; entry to the deck is around 30 lira. Go at sunset for the best views. The base has shops and cafes if you don’t want to dine.

Culture and Lifestyle

Ankara feels more functional than flamboyant compared to Istanbul—it’s a working city, home to government offices, universities, and embassies. But beneath its bureaucratic surface, there’s a vibrant cultural scene and a deep sense of national pride tied to its role in Turkey’s founding.

• Cuisine: Ankara’s food leans hearty and traditional. Try Ankara tava, a lamb and noodle dish baked in a clay pot, or Beypazarı kurusu, crisp, savory biscuits from a nearby town. Street vendors sell simit (sesame bread rings) and roasted chestnuts, especially in winter. The city’s tavernas in the Çankaya district serve meze and rakı for a lively night out.
• Markets: The Çıkrıkçılar Yokuşu in Ulus is a steep street packed with shops selling textiles, spices, and antiques—less touristy than Istanbul’s bazaars. The Kızılay district has modern malls and bustling street markets for fresh produce.
• Cultural Scene: Ankara hosts the International Ankara Music Festival (April) and the Ankara Film Festival, drawing artists and filmmakers. The city’s universities (like Middle East Technical University) give it a youthful vibe with plenty of bookstores, theaters, and live music venues.
• People: Locals are generally reserved but friendly—less used to tourists than Istanbulites, so expect curiosity rather than polished hospitality. Many are civil servants or students, giving the city a pragmatic feel.

Practical Information

• Getting There: Ankara is a transport hub. From Istanbul, it’s a 4-5 hour drive or bus ride (frequent services, 100-200 lira), or 4.5 hours by high-speed train (YHT) from Pendik Station. About 5 hours by car or bus via Istanbul. The city’s Esenboğa Airport has domestic and some international flights.
• Getting Around: Ankara’s metro and bus system are efficient—key lines cover Ulus, Kızılay, and Çankaya. Taxis are affordable, and walking works for central sights like Ulus and Ankara Castle. An AnkaraKart (rechargeable card) is handy for public transport.
• Where to Stay: Kızılay and Çankaya are central with modern hotels; Ulus has cheaper options closer to historical sites. Boutique stays in Hamamönü offer charm. Mid-range hotels run; luxury options are pricier.
• Best Time to Visit: Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) for mild weather—summers hit 35°C, winters dip below 0°C with occasional snow. November 10 marks Atatürk’s death anniversary, with ceremonies at Anıtkabir.
• Cultural Tips: Ankara is more conservative than Istanbul—dress modestly, especially at Anıtkabir or mosques. English isn’t as widespread; a translation app or basic Turkish phrases (“Merhaba” for hello, “Teşekkürler” for thanks) help.

Why Ankara Stands Out

Ankara isn’t a tourist magnet like Istanbul, but that’s part of its appeal—it feels real, unpolished, and deeply tied to Turkey’s modern identity. Anıtkabir offers a moving connection to Atatürk’s legacy, while the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations showcases the country’s ancient roots. The old quarter around Ankara Castle gives a taste of Ottoman life, and the city’s modern side—think busy Kızılay or the upscale Çankaya district—shows Turkey’s present. It’s a great stop if you’re heading between Safranbolu and Cappadocia or exploring central Anatolia.